Back from Naples

The pizza as we know it was created in the southern Italian city of Naples, and I have now eaten at three of the places that occupy spots on most top five or ten pizza places in the world: DiMatteo, DaMichele and Sorbillo. They have not disappointed.

The Neapolitan pizza is cooked quickly -- a minute or so -- in very hot wood-burning ovens. They are 13 or 14 inches across, uncut and with spots of char all around. The dough is soft and chewy. The basic Pizza Margherita is topped with only tomatoes, olive oil, mozzarella and basil.

The price? One can pay more at some restaurants, but the top pizzerias in Naples charge just three or four Euros. And when at DiMatteo, be sure to get the frittatini -- pasta and cheese deep friend with a center of meat and peas. Wow.

As good as it is, the food in Naples isn't what most amazes a visitor. It is the congested and crazy traffic on the narrow and seemingly patternless city streets. A feverish ballet of cars, scooters and pedestrians navigate the squares and streets with daring and skill. There appears to be few rules and fewer people to enforce them.

I've now been to Naples twice, and the city is both scary and exciting. It is the beating heart of southern Italy.