Thursday, July 5, 2007

Fourth festivities now a dud

When something becomes popular there is always a chance it will be ruined by such favor and attention. Restaurants are often a good example of this, especially when they expand to more locations. The original concept and execution may have been wonderful, but attempts to replicate it -- often because the owner has now become a businessman and not the cook or even the proprietor of a single location -- result in a less than genuine experience of inferior quality.

Bertucci's was once a pretty good place for a casual meal of pizza and some pasta, then they expanded and now have 92 eateries. Each level of expansion -- just as in baseball -- weakened the overall product. There's a story at Boston.com today about how Bertucci's, now owned by a New York holding company, is ready to start expanding more after a two-year moratorium (because of subpar sales...I wonder why?). Maria Feicht, Bertucci's senior vice president of marketing, is quoted in the story as saying, "...it's all about getting [market] share." I'm sorry, Ms. Feicht, but it's all about the food. When your restaurant started thinking in terms of market share, that's when it became lost.

Imagine Santarpio's expanding to 50 or 100 locations. That would kill it. The pizza would become like everyone else's. The same goes for East Boston Slush. If that lemony goodness was for sale on every streetcorner, then the production would have to shift from a back room in a doorway on Bennington Street to a factory, and then what do you have? I'll tell you: Richie's Slush. The unique quality of things is often lost when they are tampered with, and such tampering almost invariably occurs when businesses grow and try to become all things to all people. Look at the transformation of Harvard Square, which is now filled with chain stores and upscale eateries.

These thoughts occurred to me as I watched the Boston Pops Fourth of July concert and fireworks last night on television with friends. A cherished Boston tradition seems to have been butchered and rendered as flavorless as a boiled hot dog. Now it's all about the national telecast, the guest host, the mega-star musician and the phony attempts at elevating the new "product" into something special. Host Craig Ferguson claimed excitedly that the fireworks display we were about to witness was going to be "unbelievable." Not only do I believe that such fireworks are possible, but this particular exhibition was lackluster at best.

There's a reason that we often pine for "the good ol' days." Whenever we attempt to move forward there should be an assessment of what we are giving up with such a move. If losing the essence of something may be the cost, then why do it?

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